Astronomi-con

Krej · Posted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 12:48 am Post subject: Using transfers

Hey Mike,

You mentioned at one point having some tips on how to use transfers, specifically how to avoid that "silvering" effect.

I had reasonable success a while back in using a couple small transfers here and there, however I'm thinking about using a bunch to mark my whole army so any pointers would be appreciated.

Thanks!
Jer

Von_Richthofen · Posted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 12:52 pm Post subject:

I've found great success using the following method:

Once you've completely finished painting a model, give it a coat of semi-gloss sealant (like purity seal). After letting that coat dry completely, it's time to apply the decal, in the following steps:

1) Cut the decal out from the sheet, and trim it as closely as possible to the image. If the decal is going on a SM shoulder pad (and thus a rounded surface) it helps to cut away any blank space between features of the decal, so there isn't any room for it to bunch up. Example: For my Black Templars, I cut a line in between each arm of the cross.

2) Soak the decal in water, and once it's ready apply some decal setting solution to the area the decal will sit. Place the decal in it's intended spot, and then apply more solution (usually with the bottle's own brush) to the decal's surface, especially around the edges. The decal may move around as you do this, so you have to get it done right quickly or the decal may get too soft and tear.

3) Using a Q-Tip, soak up any excess water and solution on the surface of the model. Then, leave the model overnight (I usually give it a whole day) before touching it.

4) Give the model another coat of sealant to protect the decal, and then finish of with a more matte sealant (like Testors Dull Cote) to reduce the shiny effect of the Purity Seal.

This is the method I've always used, and my decals don't show any edges, and look almost as though they were painted on.

Hope this helps.
_________________
Marshal Johan von Richthofen
A.K.A.
John Russell

Senekal · Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2008 11:04 am Post subject:

John's technique is very similar to what I do.

Mine is:

Undercoat the area where the decal is to be applied with some kind of gloss finish. I've used both spray on and brush on quite successfully for this. I've also been told Future floor polish works well.

Apply the decal. When needed (particularly for things like complex curves such as SM shoulder pads) I use a product called Solvaset to get the decal to lay down and flow well over the model. Others use Micro Sol and Micro Set and swear by them but I've found Solva to be the better product and I only need the one. YMMV.

Once the decal is in position and looking good, let it dry. Once dry apply another coat of gloss clear over the top. Let that dry.

Once all that's done use some kind of Matte coat (unless the rest of the model is shiny - in which case no need). The silvered 'edge' will be gone and the decal will look like paint on the finish as John mentions above.

Hope that helps some!
_________________
Mike Major
Astronomi-con Co-Organizer

Dirty Sanchez · Posted: Fri Sep 05, 2008 1:26 am Post subject:

what happens when you just matte coat over the decal? Will it do the same thing?
_________________
Jaime Sanchez

Krej · Posted: Fri Sep 05, 2008 2:30 am Post subject:

Mike and Marshall - thank you!

Now, to find the time to try any of this... Confused

Senekal · Posted: Fri Sep 05, 2008 3:20 pm Post subject: